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Gemmell's Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Byron Gemmell is a rather underrated restaurateur in South Orange County. His French-based nouvelle cuisine is light and flavorful; his recipes use less butterfat without sacrificing any richness of texture, though sensitive palates are likely to find the fare here a bit heavy on the salt and spices. Nevertheless, this lovely Dana Point Harbor restaurant provides a pleasant dining experience and draws an upscale crowd. While the menu changes seasonally and there are different specials every day, guests can usually expect to find roast duck à l'orange, rack of lamb and fresh seafood, as well as an appealing house-smoked salmon appetizer. The French-centric dessert menu is highlighted by a trio of soufflés, and the wine list has plenty of French labels listed, although roughly half of the selections are of the domestic variety. At lunch, offerings have more of a contemporary California feel. For those planning a power lunch, there’s a reasonable business lunch menu.