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Gemmell's Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Byron Gemmell is a rather underrated restaurateur in South Orange County. His French-based nouvelle cuisine is light and flavorful; his recipes use less butterfat, though seemingly without sacrificing any richness of texture. For sensitive palates, however, everything is a bit heavy on the salt and spices. Nevertheless, this lovely Dana Point Harbor restaurant provides a pleasant dining experience and draws an upscale crowd. The menu changes seasonally and there are different specials every day, though you can usually expect to find roast duck, rack of lamb and fresh seafood, as well as an appealing house-smoked salmon appetizer. The French-centric dessert menu is highlighted by a trio of soufflés. The wine list has plenty of French labels listed, although roughly half of the selections are of the domestic variety. At lunch, the offerings have more of a contemporary California feel, and there’s a reasonable business lunch menu.