An eatery so Italian that the chef might decide not to stay open---but if he does, it's well worth the wait.
| Gennaro Picone, once on the fast track to becoming the city's most noted Italian chef, gave it up to open this excellent neighborhood spot. Caution: Call ahead; if he doesn't feel like cooking he may close up shop for the night. It's cash only and there's a modest wine list, but Picone's ribollita soup served over chunky bread, his fresh pastas, specials like grilled quail over polenta, braised lamb shank and flaky-crusted tarts are captivating. |
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