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It's all about the pizza at Gialina. Though the changing cast of seasonal starters includes under-salted padron peppers engorged with goat cheese; a balsamic-flecked speck-and-melon platter featuring crunchy, ice-cold wedges of Charentais; and rich polenta veined with swirls of melted Gorgonzola, these dishes are only a prelude to the real reason diners flock here: The Pie. The crust is dark, gnarled and notably crunchy-thin on the bottom, a foil to all manner of sweet, salty, creamy and spicy toppings. The Atomica boasts tomatoes, mushrooms, chilies, red onion and mozzarella. For those looking for something more unusual, there's pie topped with lamb sausage, young greens, spring onions, goat cheese and yogurt --- or one with nettles, mushrooms, pancetta and provolone. Take-out customers are a sizable portion of this tiny restaurant's business, and must limit themselves to ordering up to five pies.
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