Giano

Giano Restaurant Review:

This East Village trattoria has a comfortable ambience, but its downfall lies in the desire to be too many disparate things. With a menu divided between classic and contemporary dishes, an ambience that is showy and distant, and a staff that wants the restaurant to be a neighborhood hangout, the eatery is all over the map. Food-wise, the more contemporary dishes---under the heading of “facing the future”---are superior here. A patty of broccoli swims in a salty broth of clam soup; pappardelle is served with a white lamb ragù and artichoke. They’re all cheeky, updated spins on typical Italian fare. However, the “facing the past” section of the menu has some real clunkers, in particular the lasagna bolognese and the gnudi with butter and sage, both of which are leaden. If the weather is right, don’t pass up a chance to sit in the verdant back garden. The desserts are well worth trying, especially the warm chocolate mousse. Most of the wines are Italian, and available for under $40 a bottle.