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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's Restaurant Review: Gordon Ramsay has become a TV personality and celebrity, and, yes, he doesn’t cook much anymore. But like many top toques, he has trained some pretty hot chefs (many of whom have gone their own ways). Steve Allen, who is in charge at Claridge’s, has kept the standard here. Top ingredients remain: Thai-spiced lobster ravioli and mosaic of duck and foie gras as well as earthier products sourced closer to home, as in cannon of lamb and confit belly with aubergine purée, and Suffolk pork loin, belly and homemade black pudding, roasted white peach, broad beans and baby gem lettuce. The cooking is as self-assured and confident as before and, as always, desserts are something to save room for, as in vanilla soufflé with rhubarb crumble with a strawberry sorbet. The cheese trolley comes with a £12 supplement, but the discerning (and the greedy) can make sure they get good value for the money. You’re seduced before you sit down by the glamorous 1930s Art Deco setting that has entertained the rich and the royal for decades. The wine list is evenly good across the board, comprehensive and well chosen; plenty of wines by the half bottle and glass make this affordable. Set 3-course lunch £30 (a terrific value); Tasting 5-course lunch £40; à la carte 3-course meal £70; 6-course Menu Prestige £80.