THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Governor

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Governor Restaurant Review:

A cobblestone’s throw from the ramped-up Brooklyn waterfront in DUMBO, Governor is an eye-pleasing, high-ceilinged vehicle for talented chef Brad McDonald, who sharpened his knives and cooking skills at Noma in Copenhagen and Per Se in New York. Farmers market and foraged fresh ingredients drive the offerings, but McDonald does a fine job at execution as well. Raw scallops wading in a pool of home-brewed soy sauce and lemon-lime hit the spot for a starter. Poached oyster toast is a revelation: oysters, which explode with flavor, are drenched in a rich lobster emulsion. Blowfish tails get the tempura treatment and come out light and non-greasy, while the sweetbreads are accompanied by broccoli and smoked ham and topped with a hollandaise sauce. Try to save room for dessert: the bittersweet ganache with maple and buckwheat ice cream is too good to bypass. The wine list is carefully curated and includes some off-the-beaten-path yet satisfying selections from places like Austria and Lazio, with several good and affordable options by the glass; beers lean local and draft, including bottles from Ommegang and Southampton breweries topping the list.