THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Granita

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Granita Restaurant Review:

Behind the stern, sandcast and glass exterior is a consistently bright star in Islington, where any reservations about the austerity of the long, unadorned room are dispelled by the zesty cooking. There are no pictures, no tablecloths, no carpet, but the attention simply to what tastes right is immediately and pleasingly evident from the mixed bread and tub of French country butter that arrives at each table. What follows is characterised by the clarity with which ingredients are assembled. Mojama (wind-dried tuna), Garroxta (goat cheese) and sambusak (crisp, cheesy pastries) show it’s still in the vanguard. The emphasis is mainly on the Mediterranean but with some of the flavours of the Middle East getting the pared-down Granita treatment. Take grilled aubergine, mint, chilli, yoghurt and flat bread, as an example. The salady tendency is illustrated by baby artichokes, parsley, basil, white wine and toast. Meat and fish are often chargrilled, as in chump of lamb with chickpeas, courgettes and rocket, or chicken with lentils, porcini, red wine broth. Female staff in androgynous uniforms are friendly, informed and contribute to relaxing and rewarding eating. The wine list is focussed, with an equal emphasis on the old and new worlds. Set 2-course lunch Wed.-Fri. £13.50, 3 courses £15.50; set 2-course lunch Sat.-Sun. £14.50, 3 courses £16.50.