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Grants Restaurant & Bar Restaurant Review: Renowned local chef Billy Grant has struck gold twice in posh, lively West Hartford Center. Grants easily rivals, even exceeds, Restaurant Bricco, where capacity crowds are the norm. Here as there, the skilled chef puts his seasoned touch on a diverse menu of dishes from the land and sea. Preparations range from the classic---clams casino, steak au poivre---to the complex: handmade agnolotti with shiitakes and favas, fennel-encrusted tuna with watermelon, pancetta and tomato-curry vinaigrette, and so on; but since the menu is constantly in flux, you’ll rarely have to (or get to) order the same meal twice. Service is assiduous yet never strikes us as overbearing. Rather, it suits the cozy yet highly styled dining room, which reminds us of an antique parlor, what with its mirrored and muraled cream stucco walls, distressed wood floors, and tan suede booths beneath velvety rust-colored chandeliers.