THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Graze

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Graze Restaurant Review:

Remember when tapas referred only to Spanish food? Neither can we since these days it seems everybody’s creating a version of small-plates dining. Fortunately for Chicagoans, Graze---yet another entry in the sharing-is-good arena---understands that small in size doesn’t mean light on flavor. Chef Bob Zrenner created a buzz at Boystown’s X/O and is doing the same with the contemporary American cuisine at this River North spot. Start with the mesclun and candied beet salad with warm walnut-crusted goat cheese. The lemon-thyme aïoli sauce adds a nice kick to the panko-crusted artichoke hearts. While we’re big fans of the crisp herb-crusted crackers, the sage and hazelnut brown butter sauce from the pumpkin ravioli begs for some bread for dipping. Forget sharing when the espresso crème brûlée with doughnut holes arrives. We love the varied wine selection---especially the close to 50, two half-glass options for $11---as well as the friendly service but have mixed feelings about the nature motif complete with faux logs, plastic flowers and Astro-turf.