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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Grill Restaurant Review: Staring too long at the soaring rotunda of The Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia lobby can be like staring too long at the sun---it could blind you to gracious surroundings. Then you would miss The Grill, tucked into a corner like a giant Hermès scarf, all horse-y pattern, glitter and dark wood. Service is more than attentive and the American seasonal cuisine includes foie gras with grapefruit marmalade or a selection of oysters. Grilled specialties include a hefty New York strip, a Niman Ranch double-cut pork chop and a mammoth portion of wild king salmon paired beautifully with rosemary-cured bacon and roasted cipollini onions. Sides are à la carte; try the wild mushroom ragoût or chive and garlic sautéed potatoes. Desserts are deceptively simple, such as the lemongrass crème brûlée with candied ginger. The expansive wine list includes a smattering of well-priced bottles.