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Hakkasan Restaurant Review: This location of Alan Yau's renowned London Hakkasan, and the first in America, has the same authentic Chinese dishes, mainly Cantonese but not stiffly so; some Yau dishes are creative and contemporary, but never westernized. And on-site executive chef Ooi Soon Lok executes the recipes with finesse and consistency, whether they are relatively simple dim sum items like crispy taro croquettes (which crunch assertively, then melt in your mouth) or complex inventions like silver cod, oozing juiciness, with Champagne-honey sauce, atop gai lan (Chinese broccoli) and garnished with fried lotus root. Many dishes may be unfamiliar, like stir-fried morning glory with chili-preserved bean curd, while others will seem recognizable---but diners need only try a familiar-sounding item, like crispy orange chicken, redolent with real orange flavor rather than syrupy sweetness, to realize that likening Hakkasan to neighborhood Chinese eateries is as silly as likening a Belgian truffle to a Snickers bar. As for dessert, forget the fried ice cream; items like mango-lime savarin with coconut dacquoise plus mint and lime ice exhibit French flair and technique. Beverage selections are nothing special, but the décor is exotically Asian yet elegant and romantic. Admittedly, dinner is almost stunningly expensive, even if one forgoes the $198 Peking duck, but a prix-fixe weekend "dim sum" lunch, really an assorted dim sum plate plus four other courses, enables one to experience some of the restaurant at a bargain price ($28).