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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hamilton's Restaurant Review: Chefs have come and gone since this restaurant's debut in 1998. But there's hope that veteran chef Jeffrey Crise will be a sticker. He brings international flair to a menu founded in contemporary American style. That means you can concoct some interesting combinations of your own by ordering, say, a squarely mid-Atlantic oyster tart with poached leeks and pancetta followed by the Szechuan fried lobster with a ginger rice cake. Or you could go for the likes of the Hudson Valley foie gras and apple sandwich followed by the coffee-barbecued squab with chestnut spoonbread. The dining room, a softly lit den on the lower level of the Admiral Fell Inn, is intimate and welcoming; the wine list is notable; and the service is generally very good.