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Haven

44 Webster St. (1st St.) Send to Phone
Creative flavor, texture and ingredient combinations make farm-to-table magic on the Oakland waterfront.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Wed.-Sun., Brunch Sun.
Features
  • Dress code: Casual
  • Reservations suggested

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Haven Restaurant Review

: Creativity is king at this aptly named, elegant yet comfortable outpost owned by chef Daniel Patterson. Dark, stark, semi-industrial design elements and a wide waterfront view frame flavorful culinary artworks in which combinations you might never imagine not only succeed but sing. Executive chef Kim Alter has surely spent time in Wonderland: where else could she have devised such dishes as sunflower-seed risotto with pickled artichoke hearts and fresh grapefruit? Or chewy pumpkin gnocchi sprinkled with salty Chinese bean paste? Hearty entrées like braised lamb and shepherd's pie come with sly surprises, perhaps rutabaga and saffron vinaigrette. Garlicky roasted Brussels sprouts with caramelized soy sauce, pimenton d'Aleppo and Madeira reduction are a bestseller --- for good reason. In a copious open kitchen flanking a full bar (birthplace of classic and innovative cocktails augmenting an extensive wine selection), Alter makes many essential ingredients in-house, then walks them to the wild side: house-made then house-smoked ricotta goes into a starter with naturally candy-sweet roasted Chioggia beets; vanilla ice cream is created in the same manner, and then tops big-enough-for-two slabs of bourbon pecan pie. Haven's dishes owe their richness not to buckets of butter and cream but to sheer innovation.

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