Hawker Fare

Hawker Fare Restaurant Review:

The Mission expansion of chef James Syhabout’s popular Oakland eatery successfully re-creates the colorful, bustling intoxication of an Indochinese night market. Webs of clear string bulbs illuminate walls crowded with vibrant art and corrugated tin, high above bright oilcloth-draped tables and red folding chairs for roughly 100 diners. Even the turquoise neon backlighting of the house bar is gleefully reminiscent of a Laotian overnight bus. Syhabout’s renditions of Thai and Lao standards are on point, and the heat-intolerant will find little quarter from this kitchen. Fragrant jungle curries of steamed catfish and tofu are served alongside a surprisingly moist poached chicken and grilled heaps of pork shoulder and chewy beef brisket. Many dishes incorporate pungent fish sauce and are served with spicy dipping sauces. A host of quenching, boozy tiki drinks are authentically fruity but not sweet. Six beers (three on draught) and six wines by the glass or bottle complete the offering.