Nestled into an historic building, this classy joint --- its name pays tribute to architect Louis Henri Sullivan, the designer of its façade --- hopes to achieve its own landmark status. With Dirk Flanigan (The Gage) in the kitchen --- not to mention an ambitious, biodynamic French and American wine program, crown molding-adorned, hushed setting and across-from-Millennium-Park address --- the outlook is good. But all that is a mere complement to what’s on the plate: classic, sophisticated dishes constructed from local ingredients. Escargots --- buttery and redolent with garlic --- precede roasted duck breast with spice poached pears, pomegranate, hazelnut and a foie gras mousse. It’s a keeper, we think, and worthy of celebration --- well after the cheese course is complete.
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