THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hilaire

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hilaire Restaurant Review:

In this civilised restaurant the ground floor is usually bustling, so those seeking quiet and discretion might prefer the basement and particularly the cosy alcoves. Susan Webb is the welcoming hostess, while spouse chef/patron Bryan rarely ventures from the kitchen. Modern British may be his style, but classic virtues, and classic dishes are not forgotten. Mousseline of pike with lobster sauce recalls quenelles de brochet, but comes as a slice on a bed of chopped lobster, not in moulded spoonfuls. It seems, and is, very luxurious but there are no supplements in the set price of £37.50 for three courses with variations for lighter appetites. Exotic ingredients are used discreetly in the chilli oil accompanying fillets of mullet with aubergine, or elegantly balanced sweet, sharp and hot Thai dip with crisp goujons of plaice. A tender roast partridge came with bread sauce, game chips and green grapes in the well-bred gravy. There was cabbage, too, and only unreconstructed traditionalists could regret the absence of the liver croûton. Other classics are turbot with shrimps and watercress sauce, fillet steak au poivre and saddle of venison. Equal skill and delicacy show in tempting desserts, and spectacularly so in the grapefruit and Campari sorbet. The wine list is well balanced between the classics and New World with a wide choice by the glass. Set 2-course lunch £18.50; set 2-course dinner 6.30pm-7.30pm & 10pm-11.15pm £18.50, 3 courses £33.