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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hokkaido Restaurant Review: Hokkaido is a modest, pleasant restaurant serving quite traditional Japanese food. Its conventional menu is executed with workmanship and finesse. If you bring kids with you, theyll love the pond at the entrance with its happily-swimming carp and koi. Doubtless those fish know they will not wind up in the evenings sushi. In fact, seafood is the way to go here, and we often begin with a lightly fried soft shell crab cut into serving-sized pieces. Another favorite is the grilled squid, dipped in a dark, salty sauce that adds zest to the bland meat. Among the extremely fresh and authoritatively-made sushi, try the luscious eel skin roll, or such classics as flying fish roe, each egg bursting against your palate with a satisfying pop. When youve had your fill of fish, try the cold vegetable appetizers, especially pickled seaweed with sesame seeds, quite peppery and crunchy. One of the best dinners consists of marinated and grilled mackerel, a succulent filet thats served on an elegant rectangular plate. Finish a fine meal with tempura ice cream, in which the ice cream is rolled in batter and quickly deep fried---shades of baked Alaska. You may not find any really exotic dishes here---no Jade soup---but you will have achieved a meal of considerable authenticity and great satisfaction.