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Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge Restaurant Review: Chef William Frachot's short menu offers diners at this lovely old establishment reassuringly familiar fare treated with just the right touch of derring-do. Considering the cuisine's finesse, the prices here are entirely reasonable. The Signature dégustation menu is well-named, because it is indeed the work of an author who puts great ingredients in winning combinations: soft shell (carapace crab) tempura with ginger béarnaise and wok-sautéed cabbage tataki, cod with ginger seashell bouillon in the rougail fashion with mushrooms and wakame kelp, Bigorre black pork with roots, Jerusalem artichoke, and jabugo. And the cellar is honest, too, with a good selection of half-bottles. There's a wonderful twelfth-century dining room available for groups.