THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hudson Club

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hudson Club Restaurant Review:

Hudson Club is worth a visit just for Jordan Mozer’s design---a whimsical take on the 1940s Hudson auto, complete with a facade that looks like the grille after an accident, taillight ceiling fixtures that resemble birds in flight, and a marvelous mural that could be a scene from Metropolis. The cavernous, truss-roofed restaurant hit some rough patches at the outset, but the road is getting smoother. Chef Paul Larson’s fast-track food includes benchmarks like house-smoked salmon layered with crème fraîche on corn pancakes, cornflake-crusted shrimp with collards in spicy Tabasco broth and jerk-marinated pork tenderloin with marvelous ginger-infused mashed yams. The beer, single-malt Scotch and wine lists are outstanding, and you can get all 96 wines by the bottle, glass or four-wine flight, a bonanza for those who want to taste good vintages without spending big bucks. Perhaps best of all, service can be superb, which makes for a very enjoyable evening once you get past the hordes of yuppies and puppies packing the bar up front.