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Il Fornaio Restaurant Review: Sure, there’s no better place in town to enjoy a morning pastry or lovely panmarino than in this airy rotunda. The atmosphere is inviting, though most Il Fornaios are. Pastas are hit-or-miss. Skip the bland vegetable soup (also billed as "minestrone" by the servers). Stick with wood-fired rotisserie specials such as petto di pollo al pepperoncino (grilled marinated chicken with a spicy sauce) or the tagliata Chianina (grilled beef tenderloin). From season to season, the menu reads much the same, static except for desserts. Another reason people come here: Who can resist the appeal of free focaccia and other doughy treats at happy hour --- or any hour?