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Il Fornaio Restaurant Review: Sure, there’s no better place in town to enjoy a morning pastry or lovely panmarino than in this airy rotunda. Yes, the atmosphere is inviting, though most Il Fornaios are. Our past experiences with its pastas have been disappointing --- uninspired and over-sauced. Stick with wood-fired rotisserie specials such as petto di pollo al pepperoncino, grilled marinated chicken with a spicy sauce; or the tagliata chianina, grilled beef tenderloin. From season to season, the menu reads much the same --- static except on the dessert menu. Still, the place is packed. Who can resist the appeal of free focaccia and other doughy treats at happy hour --- or any hour?