THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Il Forno

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Il Forno Restaurant Review:

In its new guise, this restaurant appears to have overcome the problems of this difficult site, just too far north of the main part of Frith Street to attract much passing trade. Although the previous incarnation, the excellent Frith Street, sadly lasted only a short time, now owner Claudio Pulze and chef Marco Stucchi from Al Duca, another Pulze restaurant, have produced what seems to be a winning formula---affordable, good Contemporary Italian cooking in a relaxed setting. A starter of organic polenta with four cheeses was rich without being overwhelming; beautifully roasted firm cod came on white beans with spring onions to give it an edge, mackerel char-grilled (a favoured cooking method), came on rocket and tomato and was refreshing and oil-free. Prices and dishes are designed to attract those after a casual lunch, as in plenty of pasta choices and a pizza oven producing excellent, thin-based pizzas, perhaps with tomato, bresaola, rocket and goat cheese (£7), or with garlic smoked swordfish and mixed leaves (£7.50), as well as more serious evening diners. Desserts at £3.50 are superb: try the lemon tart with its thin meringue topping and fresh raspberries, splendidly alcoholic tiramisù in a cup, or a rich chocolate and almond cake with vanilla ice cream. Presentation is not sacrificed for economy, and the service is delightful.