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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Iris Restaurant Review: In a city where French Creole recipes and heavy butter sauces are the norm, Iris breaks that local mold. Chef-owner Ian Schnoebelen shows off his globetrotting experience---he was born in Hawaii and worked in England---in the eclectic ingredients on each plate, such as scallops with braised Vietnamese greens or hearts of palm paired with Comté cheese and pea tendrils, which also adorn the foie gras. Despite "outside the box" treatments of this sort, Iris feels indigenous rather than an interloper on the tradition-bound New Orleans restaurant scene. Schnoebelen balances flavors while allowing each element to sing. The duck breast, for example, is served with a sauce that is sweet from honey, acidic from vinegar and rich from the diced Spanish chorizo. Steamed mussels, a dish that’s too often predictable, shows up here bathed in a rich coconut broth enlivened with a piercing burst of fresh ginger. Such finely executed cuisine is no surprise to anyone familiar with Schnoebelen's background. He spent four years cooking alongside John Harris at Lilette, one of the city’s top French-influenced restaurants. What makes Iris so exciting is how quickly he infused his food with a unique voice. It embraces in a modern way the city’s long history as a port that welcomed so many cultures.