THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Irving Mill Restaurant Review
116 E. 16th St. (Irving Pl.)
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New York, NY 10003
212-254-1600
Ryan Skeen may be gone, but this gastropub-like eatery still hosts his ghost, as the seasonal and locally produced hearty dishes reflect the former chef's sensibility (as well as his proclivity toward pork). The pig ear salad taunts the diner, hoping to see how far they will take adventurous eating. The charcuterie plate, however, is slightly less audacious and more fun: a soft, but robust tête de cochon with pistachios and boudin noir make up a large portion of the plate’s offerings. The pistachio-encrusted rouget, wading in a light bouillabaisse broth, is amplified by the crunchy pieces of leeks that accompany it. The ultra-tender, Savoy cabbage-wrapped duck breast is a scene stealer, only rivaled by the rabbit leg ragoût topped by a pillowy Gruyère soufflé. The wine list spans the globe, but the long list of artisanal beers is most impressive.
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