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Irving Street Kitchen Restaurant Review: Snug in the heart of the Pearl District, this cozy, romantic restaurant retains an industrial spirit. Milk bottles are made into chandeliers, there are books to read while you wait, plus assorted overstuffed chairs and a set of private booths. Opened by a California consortium that manages a small, select group of San Francisco restaurants, Irving Street Kitchen offers an eclectic mix of Pacific Northwest and Southern comfort foods combined with modern American cooking that's both familiar and surprising. For example: tender, rich meatballs served on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes with a zingy pepper sauce, and the shrimp and dirty rice-stuffed Dungeness crab. There are inventive small plates, such as succulent bacon-wrapped oysters, a wedge salad, salmon "Waldorf" (minus the mini-marshmallows), and hearty ham and biscuits. Or you can go for a big plate of Southern fried chicken. Everything pairs well with an inventive cocktail list and state-of-the-art taps that deliver about a dozen wines directly from their barrels. For dessert, butterscotch pudding is the best in town. Weekend brunch features ham and eggs, grits, baked goods, and a still-warm-from-the-fryer cinnamon sugar donut.