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Irving Street Kitchen Restaurant Review: As the Portland outpost of a California consortium with a small, select group of San Francisco restaurants, Irving Street Kitchen straddles the line between industrial and homey. Occupying an old factory building (now condominiums), its outdoor dining area is a former railroad deck. Milk bottles have been made into chandeliers, and seating includes assorted overstuffed chairs and private booths. The menu offers an eclectic mix of Pacific Northwest and Southern comfort foods combined with modern American cooking that's both familiar and surprising. For example, mains include tender, rich meatballs served on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes with a zingy pepper sauce, and duck fat-poached halibut with baby artichokes. There are plenty of appealing small plates, such as heirloom tomatoes, burrata, whiskey-pickled cherries and pistachio butter, and succulent bacon-wrapped oysters. Everything pairs well with inventive cocktails and state-of-the-art taps that deliver about a dozen wines directly from their barrels. For dessert, try the butterscotch pudding, the pecan pie or the brownie cookie ice cream sandwich. Weekend brunch features ham and eggs, grits, and a still-warm-from-the-fryer cinnamon sugar donut.