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J. Gilbert's Wood-Fired Steaks & Seafood Restaurant Review: J. Gilbert's may technically be part of Houlihan's Restaurant Group, but it doesn't look it, eschewing the chain's penchant for silly gimmicks, over-the-top décor and pun-riddled menus in favor of a classy, clubby, darkly handsome atmosphere in which expertly prepared food takes center stage. While beef runs rampant, it does not rule the menu; the fried calamari, for instance, makes for a punchy starter with its spicy jalapeños and rémoulade, while seared scallops in Champagne beurre blanc with lobster risotto possess similar pizzazz. Of course, the steak is done well, too. That the servers are wholesome, earnest and hard-working only makes J. Gilbert's all the easier to like. The wine list is robust, and bottles priced under $100 are half-price on Mondays. Linger over cappuccino and seven-layer coconut cake.