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J. Gilbert's Wood-Fired Steaks Restaurant Review: If you measure popularity by a crowded parking lot, then J. Gilbert's must be one of Northern Virginia's most sought-after restaurants. It's a sleek makeover of Charley's Place, and locals evidently adore the change in venue and menu. With dim lighting, modern jazz in the background, a happening bar and intimate dining areas, the restaurant is an upscale, yet still casual, place. Its contemporary American menu has Southwestern influences in evidence in dishes like the crab cakes with Taos tumbleweed, a symphony of crab meat with Southwestern julienne vegetables and crispy tortilla straws. The grilled corn and smoked chicken tortilla soup with guacamole is a triumph of flavors and textures. Under the guidance of chef Frank Fernandez, good steaks star on the menu, as the restaurant's name attests. But if you prefer a meal without beef, the wood-fired chicken with mashed potatoes is a winner. When the dessert tray comes around, you'll find several good choices, but the hazelnut cheesecake with shavings of white chocolate is exceptional.