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JCT. Kitchen & Bar Restaurant Review: In a redesign of this formerly closed-in space, the walls were blown out to admit light, while soft gray surfaces and lamp shade-shrouded ceiling fixtures supply a homey and inviting feel, although the ambience can get quite loud when the place is full. This establishment launched chef Ford Fry’s line-up of restaurants, and to keep a practiced eye on the operation, he has installed E.J. Hodgkinson (Woodfire Grill) in the kitchen. JCT turns out heaps of fried chicken; properly prepared, the bird is first brined and then soaked in buttermilk before being coated and fried. Meanwhile, stone-ground grits from Red Mule near Athens, Ga., underpin the shrimp and grits, the specific preparation for which varies with the seasons. Deviled eggs, fried green tomatoes, fried oysters, rabbit and other regional cuisine are additional options. For desserts, consider the apple cobbler. Wines and beers are sourced world-wide; local labels include Red Hare lager, SweetWater and Terrapin. Sunday supper presents a plate of deviled eggs and biscuits with apple butter followed by a salad; the meat and three sides are chosen for the table.