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Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Restaurant Review: Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby has apparently taken Oscar Wilde’s dictum to heart that “Nothing succeeds like excess.” Start with this urban steakhouse’s décor: part Jazz Age (wall murals of tuxedo-class revelers, Art Deco sculptures) and part Las Vegas (back-lit bars and wine racks, rows of gaudy crystal chandeliers). Then consider the enormously portioned (and priced) entrées such as the signature Steak Collingsworth --- a full pound of USDA Prime tenderloin filet topped with asparagus, crab meat and béarnaise sauce, weighing in at more than $40, à la carte. But attentive service, quality ingredients, the aforementioned portions, and a pricey but notable wine list that complements the food all deliver on the heavy tariff’s promise. In addition to beef and lamb, fresh sushi, a raw bar and entrée seafood (here called “Ocean Meats”) are featured. Traditional à la carte steakhouse sides (mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, creamed spinach and others) are to be shared. For dessert, the Maker’s Mark mousse cake with cherry sauce is one nod to the Louisville location. Another is a side dining room decorated in horse racing prints and colors reminiscent of jockeys’ silks.