The Junction

The Junction Restaurant Review:

The Junction's small restaurant space is part of an artists’ reclamation of a simple brick warehouse. A 30-foot-long mural of a pink dog slides along the outside wall and a simple metal X sign marks “the spot.” Inside, cement floors and stark brick walls are enlivened with contemporary art. The culinary experience requires stepping out of one's comfort zone to try a foie gras corn dog and massive pork rinds. And yet it’s when chef David Van Tassel keeps it familiar and pays homage to his rural South Carolina upbringing that he hits the mark. We recommend the grilled South Carolina peach with sage-whipped Brie, country ham, vanilla toasted walnuts and bourbon balsamic. Cast-iron cornbread made in Van Tassel’s own family’s antique skillet was rich with corn but balanced by guajillo heat and sweet agave nectar. Smoked lamb and pork crepinette is rich, but worth it if you have the appetite. Make sure to save room for the “Pop Tart” garnished with Fruity Pebbles, a surprisingly restrained flashback to childhood. Wines on a short but well-selected list come from around the globe, and none is ordinary.