THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Juni

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Juni Restaurant Review:

Shaun Hergatt, who received serious acclaim at his eponymous downtown restaurant before it prematurely shuttered thanks to the downturn in the economy, is the top toque at this elegant eatery in the Hotel Chandler. Hergatt’s style is unforgivably elevated, largely devoid of passing trends. Don’t expect to find a burger (not even a deconstructed one) or bacon anything on the menu, of which the options are à la carte and prix-fixe. Instead, Hergatt sends out impressive modern fare like a foie gras torchon, cigar shaped and topped by crunchy nuggets of gingerbread. Scallops are sliced thin and rest upon a Miro-like splattering of blood orange droplets and nitrogen-frozen yuzu pellets that burst when they hit the palate. Sumptuous kale soup is bobbing with flavorful sweetbreads. Two tender, gamey slices of squab wade in a shallow pool of foie gras jus. Dessert is just as notable, particularly the goats’ milk sorbet with walnut mousse. The wine list is long and flush with pricey bottles, with everything from big California reds to natural wines from Loire, and wine pairing is adventurous in a good way.