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Sophisticated, Pennsylvania-inspired cooking turns a strip mall into a dining destination.
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Dinner Tues.-Sat., Brunch Sat.-Sun.
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Junto, Chadds Ford, PA

Junto Restaurant Review

: It’s no longer so surprising that an accomplished chef would want to set up shop in the suburbs, but the quality of MacGregor Mann’s cooking at his Chadds Ford BYOB will impress any diner lucky enough to eat here. Junto’s airy décor, featuring artisan chandeliers and original artwork, charmingly transports visitors beyond its strip mall setting. Having trained with Jose Garces and at the famed Copenhagen restaurant Noma, Mann returns to more personal influences --- namely, the PA Dutch eats of his childhood and a devotion to local foodsheds. The $65 tasting menu is a great value and an immersion in Mann’s aesthetic, but there is an à la carte option as well. The meal begins with fresh-baked cornbread sticks with an almost-savory apple butter. A thoughtful selection of farmstead cheeses and charcuterie, the latter served with root beer mustard, gives way to first courses like carrot ginger soup with Pernod froth, or the selection of roasted root vegetables, each pickled individually. Handmade pastas, such as the egg yolk ravioli, deserve attention, while the tender seared scallops with half-dollar horseradish potato pancakes and apple sumac slaw offer a satisfying yet inventive flavor combination. For dessert, the miniature brown butter cake with rhubarb confit and candied pistachio delivers an equally enchanting finish.

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