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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Kabul Restaurant Review: Tucked in a shopping strip opposite a Dunkin Donuts, it's easy to miss this unpretentious respite from the trendy chain restaurants. Cloth-covered tables, lacy curtains and the wonderful aroma that greets you at the door, however, are delightful signals that you've made a good choice. Spices are not spared here; they are so masterfully blended that only a cultivated palate can identify each seasoning. If Afghan cuisine is new for you, experiment with the samplings from the combination plate. Our favorites include: kurma pallow, a combination of chicken, beef or lamb prepared in a tomato sauce and served over basmati rice; manto, steamed dumplings filled with ground beef or chopped leeks topped with yogurt sauce; the vegetarian special---three wonderfully seasoned vegetables served alongside a generous mound of flavorful brown rice dotted with plump raisins and sliced almonds. Meat eaters won't be disappointed in the whole Cornish hen or the tender lamb kebabs. The cilantro-based relish on each table is spicy and well worth sampling. If you want a bit more heat, ask for the hotter relish. But be warned, its not for the timid palate. Meals come with a generous basket of warm naan, an authentic and very good Afghan bread, and choice of soup or salad. Opt for the aushak soup, an excellent vegetable soup garnished with yogurt. From the limited dessert menu, we repeatedly go for the milk pudding with chopped pistachio nuts. Then it's time to relax with a cup of Afghan tea, a sure soul soother.