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Kanella

757 S. Front St. (Fitzwater St.) Send to Phone
215-644-8949
Konstantinos Pitsillides’ signature Cypriot eatery keeps raising the bar.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Dinner Tues.-Sun., Brunch Sat.-Sun.
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Kanella Restaurant Review

: Moving across town to a much larger space has only proven to strengthen Kanella’s considerable powers. In its current notably swankier digs, the onetime BYO now boasts a full bar and the kind of glittery décor that signifies a big step up from the storefront. No one else is doing Cypriot cooking in Philly, and it would be hard to top what's on offer here. Chef/owner Konstantinos Pitsillides continues to offer rustic fare that’s executed with precision and plated without needless frills. Memorable starters include a tender bureki pastry filled with feta and thyme honey, and the impossibly light manti --- Armenian lamb dumplings in yogurt sauce. A wood-fired hearth turns out octopus that’s simultaneously tender and crisp; whole branzino in grape leaves; and pork shoulder on a rotisserie, served with dense potato wedges, yogurt and pikla, a mustardy vegetable pickle. Desserts, as ever, are house-made. Not to be missed: lemon yogurt mousse or the nut trio with hazelnut cake, almond panna cotta and pistachio ice cream. A smaller bar menu carries some overlap in addition to easy snacks and a Kanella burger with feta dip. The bar, meanwhile, pours Mediterranean-accented cocktails and a small but smart selection of wines from Greece, Lebanon, Cyprus, Spain and France.

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