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Kim Son Restaurant Review: As soon as guests taste the salt-baked shrimp, scallops, lobster tails and hard-shell crabs, they forget all about the restaurant’s uninspired décor and dim, flatly lit interior. For vegans, the sizzling rice soup and bean cake with black pepper are rare treats. Regulars key in on the super-thin filets of Gulf fish moistened with a garlic and black bean sauce; lean pork, seasoned and charbroiled to join fresh greens and crisp cucumber in rice paper crêpe roll-ups; and a tart-and-peppery hot-and-sour shrimp soup. Whole fish, steamed in wine or batter-fried and served in black bean sauce, is the house specialty. A traditional celebratory dinner in Vietnam, the Imperial Seven meal for two (moderately priced at under $35) presents seven consecutive courses of beef. Take your time with the menu --- it is very long, but offers some inspired dishes. Don’t look for much in the way of dessert; instead, covet those fortune cookies. Kim Son closes for vacation during the month of July.