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Kimball House Restaurant Review: Kimball House occupies Decatur's restored 1891 depot, and much of the original material remains. High ceilings reverberate sound very uncomfortably, so go early or late, or strive for a booth along the far wall where separations provide some protection. Start with oysters, selected daily and served on ice with fresh lemon and an eye-dropper mini-bottle of Champagne vinegar-based mignonette that you won't need. After that, three sections of the menu offer three different sizes of dishes, so one may dine lightly one night and more substantially another. Enjoy the potato sticks, called "Pommes Macaire," served with sauce gribiche. The entire experience can be vegetarian, if desired, or you can pony up for a three-course steak dinner for $48 or the gargantuan-size steaks for around $200 that serve two to four persons. For dessert, we like the play on classic Southern coconut cake: three iced balls of cake with a scoop each of coconut gelato and sorbetto. The short wine list is intelligent and intriguing, and even offers chilled fino sherry as an apéritif. Note a lengthy line-up of absinthes, plus several Madeiras. Details include the date when the coffee was roasted printed on the menu. We thought the Ethiopian showed notable depth of flavor. The raw bar happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. is one of the city's best deals, with half price oysters.