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Kimball House Restaurant Review: Named for two opulent, historic nineteenth-century Atlanta hotels, both long since demolished, Kimball House occupies a restored 1891 depot. The extremely high ceilings can make sound reverberate very uncomfortably as the place gathers steam and patronage throughout the dinner service, so go early to avoid the mayhem. Start with a plate of oysters, selected daily and served on ice with fresh lemon and an eye-dropper mini-bottle of Champagne vinegar-based mignonette. Gathered from Washington and the Northeast coast chiefly, the oysters are a study in the nuances these bivalves can exhibit when properly presented. After that, three sections of the menu offer three different sizes of dishes, so one may dine lightly one night and more substantially another. Choose an escabeche of mussels, for instance, as a small plate or a smoked-on-the-bone short rib with accompanying tiny and nicely cooked root vegetables with bordelaise sauce for something heftier. Classic, comforting and contemporary all at once. The entire experience can be vegetarian, if desired, or you can pony up for a three-course steak dinner for $45. For dessert, we like the plate of five chocolate cookies coming warm from the oven. The wine list is short but impressive, and even offers a properly chilled fino sherry classified, for once, as an apéritif instead of a dessert wine, as often happens. Note a lengthy line-up of absinthes. Details include the date when the coffee was roasted printed on the menu. We thought the Ethiopian showed notable depth of flavor.