| This little establishment is a side-street away from thronged Fifth Avenue, which suits regulars, who don’t have to compete with walk-ins for a table, just fine. Chef Kiy, who works wonders with a mound of sweetened rice and an oblong of super-fresh fish, has a following that goes back more than 20 years, when few in town even had even heard of---much less tasted---sushi. The usual variations on raw fish are supplemented by specials offered on a rotating basis---or dreamed up on the spur of the moment by Kiyo or one of his assistants. A smiling staff brings selections from the comprehensive, fairly priced menu of traditional Japanese dishes to the tables. |
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