La Bistecca
Millennium Biltmore Hotel
506 S. Grand Ave. (W. Fifth St.) 
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Los Angeles, CA 90071
213-612-1562
 Set in the former lobby of the historic Biltmore, one could hardly find a better dining room for a sophisticated Italian steakhouse. The 1923 Italian-Spanish-Renaissance-style architecture frames couches, padded chairs, chandeliers and white tablecloths surrounding a burbling fountain. It’s heavenly to sink into soft cushions and lay back to stare at the ornate vaulted ceiling’s angelic frescoes with a chilled glass of Falanghina. The atmosphere can be fractured at times, as hotel tourists randomly wander through with their DKNY shades, flip flops and shopping bags. Never mind, order another glass---the Sicilian Nero d’Avola is nice---and journey into the cuisine of southern Italy. Cooking with passion, chefs Franco de Dominicis (Il Buco) and Orazio Parisi (La Terza) hail from the Amalfi coast and present six fine cuts of Brandt beef, precisely seared and with profound flavor; the filet is a standout. Sauce choices include a savory porcini béarnaise and a satin mascarpone horseradish cream. Pastas can rival the steaks, particularly a tagliolini combined with lobster ragù highlighted with shallots and guanciale. Another hit is the osso buco agnolotti nestled in porcini mushrooms, truffles and ricotta. An elegant, smooth chocolate hazelnut ganache tart is a fine finish. |
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