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La Famiglia Restaurant Review: La Famiglia continues to set the bar high on the Old City culinary scene. The Sena family establishment is suavely chic, in the Florentine mode, mellowed by exposed brick walls and beamed ceilings. Candles gleam, fresh flowers grace the tables, but service can seem unconcerned for non-regulars. Make a selection from the comprehensive list of Italian wines to enhance the restrained cuisine of northern Italy. Gnocchi in a Gorgonzola cream sauce; penne with just a light toss of onions, prosciutto and Romano cheese; plump mussels; and crispy calamari sautéed with white beans and cherry tomatoes go well with a glass of Fiano di Avellino --- the strongly flavored Italian white wine. Veal is first-rate, whether done with a dusting of cheese or as a double-thick chop in a black truffle sauce. For a lighter option, try the seared scallops with spinach and fresh mint in a lemon-wine sauce. Desserts from the cart often resemble Rome’s monument to Vittorio Emanuele in their embellishment; for something simple, consider the light pastry filled with sweet cream.