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La Famiglia Restaurant Review: La Famiglia continues to set the bar high on the Old City culinary scene. The Sena family establishment is suavely chic, in the Florentine mode, mellowed by exposed brick walls and beamed ceilings. Candles gleam, fresh flowers grace the tables, but service can seem unconcerned for non-regulars. Make a selection from the comprehensive list of Italian wines to enhance the restrained cuisine of northern Italy. Gnocchi in tomato sauce baked with mozzarella; plump mussels; and broccoli rabe sautéed with Italian sausage go well with a glass of Fiano di Avellino, the strongly flavored Italian white wine. Veal is first-rate, whether done with a dusting of cheese or as scallops with roasted garlic. For a lighter option, try the grilled salmon with lemon and herbs. Desserts from the cart often resemble Rome’s monument to Vittorio Emanuele in their embellishment; for something simple, consider the pastry filled with sweet cream.