 La Mar Cebicheria Peruana Restaurant Review: Peruvian celebrity chef Gastón Acurio picked an apt location for his first stateside eatery: smack-dab on the waterfront. A loungey bar, patio and lofty dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows, tall potted plants and turquoise décor create a comfortable, modern indoor-outdoor feel. The vivid peppers that are Peruvian staples --- red rocoto, yellow aji amarillo, orange aji panca --- inform dishes that, in the deft and daring hands of executive chef Diego Oka, are as sculpturally striking as they are seductively piquant. Classics include causas (whipped-potato pedestals), empanadas (Peru's answer to the knish) and anticuchos (grilled skewered meat and seafood). House-specialty cebiches include cebiche clásico, tender chunks of halibut transformed by tangy lime-based "leche de tigre." Exciting brunch items (you'll want to photograph them before indulging) include chicharrones served with soft Acme rolls; Chinese-influenced "chaufa power" (fried rice, egg noodles, sausage, pickles and pepper sauce); and Brussels sprouts topped with peppery bacon candy. Rich, fruity desserts and complicated pisco cocktails introduce yet more memorable, if initially unfamiliar, flavors.
|