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La Marea Restaurant Restaurant Review: For as long as we can remember (which is back to the early 1990s), the Tides' upscale restaurant has changed chefs and identities every few years, with prolonged transitional periods between definitive chefs, where food had little focus except trying to fulfill every conceivable tourist taste. This is one of those in-between times. After the too-brief stint of Mexican/New American fusion chef Gonzalo Rivera, fare's basically just non-basic; it's elaborate retro-modern resort food, loaded with all the bells and whistles that used to typify luxe vacation fine dining. Forget that simply-grilled dry-aged steak; a NY strip here comes with roasted foie gras plus mushroom fricassée, tomato relish and périgourdine sauce. And a seafood risotto made with organic, aged Acquerello carnaroli may not need the fancifying with lemon beurre blanc and piquillo pepper foam…but it's fun. This festivity factor gives the menu more positives than negatives. Still, some more distinctive leftovers from Rivera's reign---a soup 'n' sandwich combo (smoked tomato soup with basil espuma plus lobster grilled cheese); Baja-style fish tacos featuring grilled chile-rubbed mahi mahi with creamy chipotle slaw; buñuelos with caramelized mango, tamarind coulis and Mexican vanilla ice cream---may be the most fun, especially when eaten on La Marea's beach-view outdoor terrace.