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La Marée Restaurant Review: La Marée, a restaurant named for the tide, has a wainscotted dining room decked out with oversize Flemish paintings. Seafood naturally rates top billing. The lunch menu is affordable and the entirely traditional fare of the past has given way to glimpses of modern. Cast your eye down the long list of classics, such as the pike quenelles in shellfish sauce or the roasted lobster with coral butter. Peruse contemporary selections like the sea bass with chorizo and small herbed cod fritters, or red mullet filets cooked on the grill and served with Basque risotto. The best of Burgundy and Bordeaux are to be found in the gentleman's club atmosphere with its old-world, pleasantly abetting service.