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La Masseria Restaurant Review: You have to admire a restaurant unabashed enough to serve a big, flat breaded veal chop with a substantial bone sticking out the side. If you want rustic Italian cooking, La Masseria's costoletta di vitello alla Milanese perversely fits the bill, even if its lineage can be traced to the industrial capital of Lombardy. Closer to La Masseria's geographic roots in Puglia is the terra mare del tavoliere, a mix of grilled octopus and mildly exotic cuttlefish that retains just a hint of charcoal flavor and is nicely accompanied by broccoli rabe and a silky fava bean purée. Other recommended starters include meatballs served with an ever-so-slightly peppery marinara sauce and basil, and --- this being Rhode Island --- the obligatory fried calamari or the lightly battered and fried zucchini strings. Beyond the veal, there's plenty of room for adventure among the entrées, such as a whole grilled Mediterranean sea bream, oven-roasted rabbit, and sautéed calf’s liver. Lemon or coffee tiramisu are the obvious dessert selections. All pretty simple stuff, but well executed --- the restaurant’s owners hail from Italy (one from Puglia, two others from Capri), and it shows both in fidelity to authentic recipes and engaging service that encourages a lively atmosphere without crossing the line into loud and boisterous.