An unexpected neighborhood gem, Larchmont Grill occupies a lovingly restored Craftsman home. The cozy, inviting atmosphere is reinforced with candle-lit linen-clad tables and a prominent brick fireplace, while another art-filled room lies upstairs. Both levels offer delightful verandas for good weather. On the menu, American comfort cuisine is gently enhanced with sophisticated elements and classic technique. You might begin with a colorful beet-goat cheese napoleon or soul-warming mac ‘n’ cheese in which a mixture of Gruyère, Parmesan and cheddar is laced with a nostalgic dose of Velveeta. Lighter on the palate are “dueling tartares”---tuna in a lime-ginger-soy vinaigrette and salmon in a lemon-shallot treatment. Among entrées are pan-roasted trout in lemon-white wine sauce, satisfying lamb chops crusted with mustard and a copious amount of goat cheese, and Roquefort-crusted filet mignon with a deftly prepared port reduction. Vegetarians can feel decadent with sweet potato gnocchi in a brown butter-sage sauce. The eclectic wine list is reasonably priced, and for a finish, consider the chef’s pie-of-the-day, which underscores the homey vibe here.
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