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Las Canarias Restaurant Review: Chef John Brand is shaking up ever-elegant Las Canarias with a menu that smacks more of his own farm upbringing. Though much that’s on offer in the serene dining room overlooking the river references standard New American cooking (Patagonia salmon with local farmer vegetable caponata and lemon curd, and duck leg confit with house-made bacon- Brussels sprout hash), there are increasing signs of a concentration on local products such as Texas-grown mushrooms, regionally ranched beef and Lockhart-raised quail. The pace picks up even more with a Chef Tasting Menu that is often the direct result of visits to local farms and farmers markets. Three- and five-course options are available, and all may be paired with appropriate wines. The wine list is especially deep in Northern California Cabernets but could use more variety in both pricing and sourcing. Service remains smooth, and so do the musical strains the restaurant’s flamenco guitarist.