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Las Ramblas Restaurant Review: Situated at the River Walk level of the upscale Hotel Contessa, Las Ramblas trades heavily on location and boasts details in tile and wrought iron that evoke the Barcelona of Gaudí. Chefs have shifted but the menu remains firmly focused on Spanish selections such as the tapas-scale duck “ham” with candied quince and beef and lamb meatballs with sherry pan drippings. Yes, there’s the obligatory paella or three (for fun, try the squid ink variation). But there is also the seafood-studded zarzuela Catalana and a Spanish-style potato “tortilla” with piquillo jam. Diners not feeling especially español may opt for (comparatively) Yankee-fied fare such as grilled rib-eye --- but it will still come with romesco sauce. Vegetarians will appreciate options such as the farmers market paella. Iberian offerings have increased on the wine list; for tippling with tapas consider cava, the dependable Spanish sparkler.