Lasserre
17, av. Franklin D. Roosevelt
Send to Phone
75008 Paris France
01 43 59 02 13
Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt
Cuisine
Open
Lunch Thurs.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat. Closed Aug. Open until 10pmFeatures
- Romantic setting
- Private room(s)
- Air conditioning
- Reservations suggested
- Outdoor dining
- Valet parking
- Dressy
Wine
Great Wine List* Click here for rating key
The visionary René Lasserre purchased and transformed this space near the Champs-Élysées after the close of the 1937 Paris International Exposition. With its essence of romance, and a ceiling which on clear and balmy nights would open up on the star-studded sky of Paris, this sumptuous mansion became a magnet for the glitterati. Many illustrious chefs started their apprenticeships here, including Marc Haeberlin, Guy Savoy, Michel Rostang and Jacques Lameloise. There are many reasons to dine at the present-day Lasserre. Chiefly among them is to experience the cooking of chef Jean-Louis Nomicos. Take, for instance, the restaurant’s signature dish, the Pigeon André Malraux. Nomicos has interpreted the masterpiece with his own rendition to fit contemporary tastes, cutting the cooking time, reducing the avalanche of foie gras, and balancing the tender squab meat with vegetables and fruits of the season. We also endorse his creations such as the mentholated green peas in almond milk with osetra caviar, the crayfish crispy in the mouth and melting with the young lettuce, and the côte de veau perfumed with lemon and ginger. The wine cellar, besides housing the grand crus de rigueur, welcomes less prestigious but worthwhile vintages from the Rhône Valley, the Loire Valley, and from the up-and-coming area of Languedoc. The desserts are refreshing and pleasant in their simplicity, but they lack the creativity and the elevation of what came before. What has been accomplished on the menu, preserving the legacy and bringing it up to speed, has yet to be done with the décor. Although very attentive (perhaps overly so), the service in this stodgy environment seems a tad starchy. Once these details are finally polished, if they ever are, Lasserre has the potential to reach the highest rung among the top Paris restaurants. |
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The visionary René Lasserre purchased and transformed this space near the Champs-Élysées after the close of the 1937 Paris International Exposition. With its essence of romance, and a ceiling which on clear and balmy nights would open up on the star-studded sky of Paris, this sumptuous mansion became a magnet for the glitterati. Many illustrious chefs started their apprenticeships here, including Marc Haeberlin, Guy Savoy, Michel Rostang and Jacques Lameloise. There are many reasons to dine at the present-day Lasserre. Chiefly among them is to experience the cooking of chef Jean-Louis Nomicos. Take, for instance, the restaurant’s signature dish, the Pigeon André Malraux. Nomicos has interpreted the masterpiece with his own rendition to fit contemporary tastes, cutting the cooking time, reducing the avalanche of foie gras, and balancing the tender squab meat with vegetables and fruits of the season. We also endorse his creations such as the mentholated green peas in almond milk with osetra caviar, the crayfish crispy in the mouth and melting with the young lettuce, and the côte de veau perfumed with lemon and ginger. The wine cellar, besides housing the grand crus de rigueur, welcomes less prestigious but worthwhile vintages from the Rhône Valley, the Loire Valley, and from the up-and-coming area of Languedoc. The desserts are refreshing and pleasant in their simplicity, but they lack the creativity and the elevation of what came before. What has been accomplished on the menu, preserving the legacy and bringing it up to speed, has yet to be done with the décor. Although very attentive (perhaps overly so), the service in this stodgy environment seems a tad starchy. Once these details are finally polished, if they ever are, Lasserre has the potential to reach the highest rung among the top Paris restaurants. 

