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L'Assiette Restaurant Review: David Rathgeber, a native of Auvergne in the center of France, has taken up this restaurant founded by Lucette Rousseau, known as Lulu. David apprenticed under mega chef Alain Ducasse in New York and Tokyo. His secret longing was to open his own chic bistro. He specializes in South Western cuisine and his cassoulet has acquired quite a reputation. With quality produces he turns out the classics of the bistro world, such as sardines marinated in lemon, olive oil and piment d’Espelette. David is excellent at sauces: try the quail cooked as an Ortolan in its own juice with streaky bacon and confit potatoes or the duck petit salé à la Poitevine. Do not miss his caramel cream moelleux made with salt butter and served in a pot. On the short but smart wine list designed by the chief sommelier of Alain Ducasse, go for a Chablis, 2006, from G. Tremblay or a Médoc 2004 from the Chapelle de Potensac served either by the glass or by the jug of 16 ounces. À la carte €50.