L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
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L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Restaurant Review: This is the eighth “Atelier” of Joël Robuchon, a concept spread throughout the world, from Las Vegas, London, Tokyo and Hong Kong to Taipei. At the upper end of the Champs-Elysées, in the lighted basement of the Publicis Drugstore building, the red and black notes of this Atelier with its counter around an open kitchen remind us of its global siblings. The “faithful” brigade of the chef, Philippe Braun, Eric Bouchenoire and Yosuke Suga play a recital of rich and neat flavors, with a Spanish touch for the tapas-size portions with an Asian seasoning, such as a royale of foie gras and slices of bellota ham in an appetizer, and a caviar jelly topped by cauliflower cream. Dishes are precise and tasty like the salad with foie gras, artichokes, black truffle and Parmesan shavings; the black cod in daikon broth with a dash of yuzu; and the caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras and sided by an unctuous purée (the famous Robuchon purée!). The desserts of François Benot, the “parfum des îles,” coconut emulsion over a rum granita, and the minty upscale version of the After Eight candy, are worth a try. Ultra-efficient service and topnotch wines by the glass.