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L'Auberge du 15 Restaurant Review: When in season, green plants decorate the façade of L'Auberge du 15. The elegant dining room has a charming, provincial feel that sets the tone. Forget the umpteenth Parisian bistro---here the cuisine bourgeoise is a must. The parquet floors, stone accents, heavy curtains, and blue ceramic tiles on the kitchen walls are reminiscent of chef-owner Nicolas Castelet's family roots in the Aubrac region. The chef's background is impressive, having worked with Stéphanie Oliver, Alain Passard, Alain Dutournier, Christian Le Squer, Jean-François Piège and Joël Robuchon. Here, he practices classical French cuisine with simplified technique. The seasonality of ingredients is considered, and cooking times are perfectly executed. Delicately flavored juices and noble and tasty accompaniments can be found in dishes like the asparagus with morels and a "sauté bourguignon" simmered with aromatic vegetables and dry-smoked pig fat. Roasted chicken is stuffed with garlic croutons and served with young vegetables and beautiful shallots "au jus," while Breton langoustines are sautéed with vegetables and served in a creamy shellfish stock. Originality and invention are present in the crab jelly---a remarkable symphony of strong and subtle sea accents. L'Auberge du 15 is about conviviality; it is also a friends and family enterprise. The chef's young brother Florent is a pastry chef who previously worked with Guy Savoy and Eric Fréchon. He prepares a generous charlotte for the table accompanied by a sauceboat of excellent fruit coulis. The team on the floor, led by Maxime Duteil, is in perfect tune with the quality of the food and spirit of the place. A judicious selection of wines, such as a Viognier from Jaboulet and a Morgon Côte de Py, is served by the glass.