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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Laurent's Modern Cuisine Restaurant Review: Laurent Rea has been a background force in several local kitchens, most notably at the late, lamented L’Etoile. Now that he can express his own singular style at Laurent’s Modern Cuisine, Rea’s talent at last commands our attention front and center. Utilizing French technique in the service of an eclectic contemporary menu --- one employing local ingredients as much as possible --- he brings us such dishes as tuna tartare with anise “pearls,” portobello ravioli garnished with pomegranate, and a re-imagined tomato soup enhanced with crab. A single, seasonal salad relieves diners of decision-making, as, to a lesser degree, does the remainder of the evening’s four-course prix-fixe menu. That menu is meant to change frequently, so disappointment at not finding a recommended roast suckling wild boar atop parsnip purée is to be expected. But though there may be quibbles over details, this is truly a close-your-eyes-and-point proposition --- even at dessert. Pastry chef Elise Broz possesses both formidable technique and a sense of humor with creations such as her deconstructed s’mores. A limited, though reasonably priced, wine list is about our only complaint chez Laurent.